5 Key Takeaways From Alexander McQueen’s F/W 25 Show in Paris

Someday after its former inventive director of 13 years Sarah Burton offered her debut assortment for Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, now with Seán McGirr on the high of the inventive meals chain, held its F/W 25 runway present throughout Paris Vogue Week on the Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie. The Irish designer, who was employed for the function in October of 2023 after a stint at JW Anderson as its head of ready-to-wear, seems to be hitting his stride, debuting what HFTWT is looking his greatest assortment but. An much more elevated and developed continuation of his S/S 25 assortment, this fall providing featured the identical deal with tailoring, blended in with a way of extravagance, threat, and opulence that felt proper for the home McQueen constructed.

It started darkish, with a complete of six black, trim fits and coats, all of which have been fitted to perfection and sculpted in all the proper locations. Victorian ruffled sleeves and peek-a-boo black lace added to the drama of the in any other case understated separates, as did sharply pointed lace-up boots. Stars of the gathering included silk-and-shearling toppers that have been made to appear like wings, hanging collars from a long-ago age, and fantastically constructed corsets.

For extra on McGirr’s F/W 25 assortment for Alexander McQueen, preserve scrolling.

The Return of the Cranium Scarf

Arguably essentially the most talked-about contact from this assortment was McGirr’s re-issuing of the cranium scarf, an icon of the Alexander McQueen universe that early aughts style folks bear in mind fondly and have been understandably enthusiastic about seeing the return of. A purple, giant model of the skull-printed silk accent debuted on the runway tied to a top-handle purse worn by mannequin Sara Caballero, styled alongside an outsized felt hat, ruffled shirt, midi skirt, and buckled ankle boots, all in black. It appeared another time later within the present on a male mannequin donning a leather-based jacket and gloves and slim-fit black trousers.

(Picture credit score: Alexander McQueen)

Dandyism at Play

“To me, dandyism is the final word act of decoration; deeply private, playful, and transgressive,” McGirr wrote in a press launch. “It raises questions of character and id, idealism, and gender. I wished to discover the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our fashionable world.” In response to the discharge, McGirr’s preliminary inspiration for F/W 25 got here from Victorian dandies, like Oscar Wilde, Vesta Tilley, and Romaine Brooks, in addition to the Charles Dickens ebook Night time Walks, during which a personality in London strolls the streets at evening. “It form of bought me interested by this concept of a flaneur, somebody who may be very confident and is aware of themselves actually, very well, which for me is a power of McQueen,” McGirr instructed Vogue. These beginning factors finally led to the beautiful wool tailoring discovered all through the gathering, in addition to the extra intimate and opulent touches like sheer lace and fluid silks that really feel concurrently fashionable and paying homage to one other time.

(Picture credit score: Alexander McQueen)

Darkish vs. Gentle

“London, by evening,” the press launch reads, which explains beginning off the present with a complete of 13 ensembles that are not simply black in coloration, however darkish in vitality as properly. Darkness and emotion are the McQueen approach, in spite of everything, so it is hardly stunning to see a way of decorative gloom make its approach into McGirr’s providing for the season. Using blood purple for languid, flowing clothes and wealthy jacquards on sharply tailor-made fits likewise felt becoming for the home. It was the lightness of different appears—a translucent, silk georgette robe in lilac with a lace ruff and cream, silk corsetted minidress that includes an unlimited silk organza and pure shearling bolero—that supplied simply the correct amount of soppy, ethereal vitality to the gathering, thus creating an ideal stability.

(Picture credit score: Alexander McQueen)

Victorian Particulars

From the laced-up boots with an exaggerated pointed toe to the ruff collars, lace bell sleeves, and total venue, every thing in regards to the F/W 25 present and assortment have been tied to Victorian London. The present area, a part of the French Nationwide Museum of Pure Historical past, was conceptualized by British Tony award-winning artist Tom Scutt, who additionally created an set up for the area. It featured Victorian structure all through, setting the stage for the garments offered inside. The jewellery included “Victorian naturalism and Oscar Wilde-inspired motifs,” based on the discharge, whereas clothes’ shoulders and collars have been designed with practices used throughout the period.